Mount Fuji: My experience and advice

14/07/2025

Reading time: 3 minutes

Mount Fuji was one of those places I absolutely had to visit at least once in my lifetime. As Japan's highest peak (3,776 meters) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it had always been a dream of mine. During my trip to Japan, seeing this perfectly shaped volcano, sometimes crowned with snow depending on the season, was high on my bucket list.

The problem? I booked my visit a little too casually and didn't really check the weather forecast. Naively, I assumed Fuji would be easy to spot, especially since the sun was shining brightly when we left Tokyo.

While on the bus to Fujiyoshida, I started reading reviews and articles... and suddenly, panic set in. Apparently, Mount Fuji is often hidden behind clouds, and some people never manage to see it despite multiple visits. One person even wrote that they had gone three times and never once caught a glimpse of it!

Thankfully, the journey is relatively short, around 1 to 1.5 hours from Tokyo Station. As we got closer, somewhere in the middle of the trip, I finally saw it.

And it was even more incredible than I had imagined.

The irony? While I was busy stressing over all those negative reviews, my boyfriend calmly said, "Look ahead."

And there it was.

The little girl inside me, who had dreamed of this moment for years, was completely overwhelmed with wonder.

In that instant, I realized how lucky I was. Seeing Mount Fuji right there before my eyes brought tears to them. The 10,000 kilometers traveled from the United Kingdom, where I was living at the time, suddenly felt completely worth it.

Day 1: Our Arrival

The excitement was through the roof!

The bus we took stopped in several villages around Mount Fuji, and we chose to stay in Fujiyoshida. Our hotel was 📍 Fuji Tatsugaoka, which offered direct views of Mount Fuji, an outdoor onsen, and a Japanese barbecue restaurant right downstairs.

Honestly, it felt like a little dream.

After an intense week in Tokyo where we were walking nearly 20 kilometers a day, we were craving nature and a slower pace. That said, the contrast was a little shocking at first. Going from Tokyo, and even London where we lived, to a small Japanese town took some adjustment. The city-to-countryside transition was definitely noticeable.

We arrived around 4 PM and decided to spend the rest of the afternoon exploring the area and, most importantly, admiring Mount Fuji while it was still visible. According to the official website (I'll share the useful links at the bottom of this article), we only had a 40% chance of seeing it the next day.

Plaque d'égout Mont Fuji

Mont Fuji devant notre hotel

We wandered through charming modern-traditional neighborhoods surrounded by green mountains and light mist. The atmosphere almost felt tropical.

We stopped by the nearest 7-Eleven and took a quick look around Book Off for a few fun finds.

To be honest, there isn't a huge amount to do nearby, and we found the bus system a bit difficult to use (or maybe we just weren't very good at figuring it out!). One bus per hour that finishes fairly early in the day isn't ideal when you don't have a car.

Still, after returning to the hotel and watching Mount Fuji slowly disappear behind the clouds as the sun set, we enjoyed a relaxing soak in the onsen before trying the barbecue restaurant downstairs.

And wow...

It ended up being one of the best restaurants of our entire trip.

We had our own little private booth hidden behind curtains, just the two of us. The perfect date-night atmosphere.

On the menu: wagyu beef, pork ribs, beef tongue, and more, all cooked by ourselves with the help of our incredibly kind host.

One thing that really touched us was how many people in this small town made an effort to communicate in English or used voice translators to help us. It made us feel so welcome.

Wagyu Beef

Barbecue Japonais

Day 2: Mount Fuji plays hide and seek

The first thing I did when I woke up was run to the window to see if the king of the region had decided to make an appearance.

But no.

Today, the sky was grey, the mist was thick, and Fuji-san remained hidden.

It was a little heartbreaking after the incredible views we'd enjoyed the day before.

We decided to walk to the nearest 7-Eleven, about ten minutes away, for breakfast. It was the first time a convenience store had ever felt so far away from us, and somehow it became its own little adventure.

After breakfast back at the hotel, we headed to the onsen.

Ambiance Ghibli

Rue de Fujiyoshida

We had promised ourselves that this countryside stop would also be a chance to truly rest. So between walks through quiet neighborhoods and traditional houses, we simply soaked in the atmosphere. The scenery had something magical about it, almost as if we'd stepped into a Studio Ghibli movie. Sometimes I regret not filming more of these moments. Other times, I think it was better this way. Being fully present, without a screen between me and the experience.

For lunch, we didn't overthink it. We loved the barbecue so much that we simply went back. After all, it was delicious, only steps away from our room, and we were on holiday. Why not? Later in the afternoon, after a nap, I checked the weather website once again, hoping Mount Fuji would reveal itself before our departure. Nothing yet. But I kept checking. You never know. I returned to the outdoor onsen, this time while a light rain fell around me. There was something deeply calming about the contrast between the hot water and the cool raindrops on my skin. And for anyone with tattoos, like me, this hotel allows them as long as they're covered with patches, which was a huge relief.

These two days in Fujiyoshida felt special. Quiet.

Filled with onsen visits, gentle walks, and the almost mystical anticipation of seeing Mount Fuji again. I also spent some time organizing the next stage of our trip. A small anxiety was beginning to grow. Tomorrow, we would be heading to Osaka.

And trust me, that transfer would be far more complicated than expected

I've gathered all the locations from my trip into a ready-to-use map to help save you time when planning your own journey :MY MAP JAPON

Jardin japonais de notre hôtel

Fresque sous un pont

Day 3: I'm starting to lose hope

Same routine. The moment I woke up, I opened the curtains. Still no Fuji-san. No sign of him anywhere. The sky remained stubbornly overcast. I won't lie, I was disappointed. But deep down, I reminded myself how lucky we had already been to see him once. That was better than nothing. We stuck to our morning ritual anyway: a trip to the convenience store for coffee, a mango smoothie (I'm officially addicted), and breakfast.

Then we caught the bus we absolutely couldn't miss to reach Fujiyoshida's famous shopping street, the one perfectly aligned with Mount Fuji in the background.

7/11 proche de notre hôtel

Couple qui fait ses photos de Mariage dans la rue commerçante de Fujiyoshida

But once again, it wasn't meant to be. The mountain stayed hidden. So instead, I focused on what was around me. There is something beautiful about everyday life in Japan. As I wandered down the street, I came across a newlywed couple having their wedding photos taken... without Mount Fuji in the background. My heart sank a little for them. I imagined how much they had hoped for that perfect shot.But their happiness lit up the entire scene anyway. I decided to walk back to the hotel, slowly exploring the surrounding area. Everything felt peaceful and green, with charming houses that looked like they belonged in an anime. I genuinely felt like I was walking through the setting of a Japanese slice-of-life series: simple, comforting, and serene.

Tomorrow, we would leave Fujiyoshida for Osaka. (I've already written an article about Osaka if you're interested. Spoiler alert: I absolutely loved it!) Tonight would be our final onsen, our final barbecue, and one last glance toward the sky in the hope of seeing Fuji-san again.

We would leave early the next morning for a long journey by bus and train toward Osaka, avoiding Tokyo in favor of a cheaper and slightly more adventurous route.

Goodbye, Fuji-san.

Hopefully, we'll meet again someday.

(Spoiler: we did. We spotted him one final time from the train between Kyoto and Tokyo, like a little farewell gift.)

Vue de notre chambre

Vue du Mont Fuji dans notre bus d'allée

If I ever return to Japan one day (spoiler: I definitely will), I'll probably try to see Fuji-san from another town or a different angle.

But one thing is certain: I will absolutely return to that barbecue restaurant.It was a hidden gem, and I still dream about their matcha ice cream! When Mount Fuji decides to reveal itself, it is absolutely worth the trip. There is something magical about it, something that almost doesn't feel real.

That being said, if you're used to living in large cities like we were, the slower pace of the countryside can come as a surprise. Public transportation is limited, and there's not a huge amount to do without a car.

It's something you need to embrace as a slower chapter of your journey. A pause. A moment to breathe.

If you're planning a trip to Japan and need help organizing your itinerary, I'd be delighted to help! Feel free to visit my website, New Escapade, where I share plenty of articles about my journey through Japan, my full itinerary, practical tips, recommendations, and of course, a little bit of my passion for this fascinating country.